Thai takeout at home? A stir-fry framework

+ whipped feta, cowboy caviar controversy, & braising mistakes

5 min read.

Good morning. Early newsletter adopters might remember the very first edition featuring mushroom pad see ew.

In light of many requests to keep up the cooking frameworks, we’re revisiting this classic Thai noodle dish and breaking it down to better understand what each ingredient does.

TRY SOMETHING NEW 🤯

Pad see ew framework

Pad See Ew Components (by approximate volume)

  • 1 part wide rice noodles

  • 1 part protein & vegetables (like thinly sliced chicken, egg, & Chinese broccoli)

  • 1/8 part aromatics (usually chopped garlic & white pepper)

  • 1/4-1/2 part sauce

  • plus cooking oil

Sauce Ingredients

  • 1 part sugar (for sweetness)

  • 1 part light soy sauce (for saltiness)

  • 1 part dark soy sauce (for color)

  • 1 part oyster sauce (for umami)

Instructions

  1. Prep noodles & sauce: Cook noodles according to package directions, drain, and set aside. Mix all sauce components until the sugar dissolves.

  2. Cook the protein & veg: In batches, use a bit of oil and high heat to stir fry the egg, sliced protein, and vegetables until cooked through and lightly charred. Add each batch to a large bowl on this side.

  3. Bring it together: Lastly, bloom the garlic in a bit of oil. Add the noodles and some sauce to the pan, which should start sizzling and charring a bit. Add the reserved vegetables and proteins and stir fry to combine. Add more sauce if desired.

  4. Adjust & serve: Season with white pepper and salt, if needed. Enjoy hot.

Pro Tip - Even if you have a wok, stir-fry each ingredient individually for better searing. Most home ranges aren’t hot enough to cook everything through at once (you’ll risk steaming everything together and slowing down the process).

THROWBACK TIME 🍳

Not all “feta” created equal

Not all “Feta” cheese in supermarkets is created equal. Some are made with cow, sheep, or goat milk, some are sold in dry crumbles, while others are sold as a block in liquid.

So which one should you be buying?

1. Buy whole bock feta instead of crumbled

  • Crumbled feta is usually more expensive per ounce, is dryer, and has added starches that affect the flavor and texture.

  • Whole block feta in brine, if you can find it, will stay fresh for weeks longer than other options

2. For a creamier product, buy sheep/goat milk feta

  • Technically, cow's milk isn’t real Feta, although it is available as a cheaper, low-fat option

  • Cows milk feta is dryer and won’t spread easily or melt in cooking applications

For all the details, check out the full video.

Go buy a few blocks of feta and try all this for yourself. Here’s the best way to use up any extra:

THE LEFTOVER SHELF 🥡

Whipped feta dipping platter

A light summer snack or lunch.

Whipped Feta Components

  • Leftover Feta

  • Texture adjuster: Greek yogurt, cream cheese, milk, lemon juice, or water.

  • Garnish ideas: olive oil, roasted garlic, spices, toasted nuts, olives, lemon zest, etc.

Dipping Options

  • Pita bread or crackers

  • Vegetables: sliced carrots, cucumbers, bell peppers, etc.

To assemble:

In a blender, add feta chunks and a small amount of a texture adjuster. Blend until smooth and aerated, adding more texture adjuster or a splash of water if needed to loosen it up. Adjust with salt or lemon juice, if needed. Garnish and serve with dipping items.

FOOD TRENDS EXPLAINED 🚀

Cowboy caviar

What’s up with cowboy caviar?

Cowboy caviar is a refreshing yet hearty dip served cold that typically features beans, avocado, corn, and some crunchy, spicy, or aromatic vegetables. It’s easy to make and personalize, and has taken social media by storm.

How did it become so popular?

Like many food trends, cowboy caviar first became viral because of it’s crowd-pleasing, versatile nature — it balances creamy, sweet, salty, and acidic components, and can be eaten with chips.

However, the dish also gained cultural traction because of its surrounding controversy. Although cowboy caviar has origins tied to a Dallas chef in the 1940s (thus sometimes called Texas caviar), its history has sparked a debate around food appropriation.

  • Indeed, the ingredients come together in the style of a pico de gallo or a corn salsa; can a single person really claim to have invented this combo of ingredients?

If you have perspective on the matter, or just thoughts on accurately attributing food origins in general, reply to let us know!

READER Q&A 🧠

Braising in chunks vs. whole

Question: “I’ve braised maybe 10 times in my life. Is there a big difference between cutting the meat into chunks vs. cooking it as one piece?" — Alex R.

Answer: Cutting the meat into chunks allows more surface area to be seared and browned before braising, adding more flavorful caramelization and depth to the overall dish.

Sometimes it’s just a matter of space too. If an awkward pork shoulder won’t fit into your Dutch oven, it might in smaller pieces.

Other than that, there’s not much difference between braising in one piece vs. smaller chunks. Smaller pieces might cook a bit faster, but the difference will be negligible in the long cooking process anyways.

  • Regardless of how the meat is cut, there is still the same connective tissue (collagen) that has to be broken down into gelatin over a long time for the meat to become tender.

For more info, check out Ethan’s braising guide here.

READER PHOTO SUBMISSION OF THE WEEK 🏆

Prized pasta

This week’s dinner winner is Victoria O from the Pickled Onion Club. She prepared carbonara using Ethan’s recipe.

Reply with a picture of the best meal you made this week for a chance to be featured in a future email.

MORE YUMMY CONTENT 🍽️

In a Minute or Less: Juicy Chicken Breast Science

What We’re Watching: Sitting Through a 50-Course Meal

Food Science: Burger Framework Science

READY TO SHOP? 🛒

SPONSORED BY: PICKLED ONION CLUB

Argentinian-style adjustable grills

Every month, Pickled Onion Club drops 2 additional deep-dive articles. This week's edition looked into the merits of different outdoor cooking setups…like these Argentinian gaucho grills and more.

Argentinian grills have wide, metal bars that can be raised and lowered with a pulley system, usually heated by charcoal or wood fire.

Strengths 💪

Variable heat: The adjustable grill height combined with the radiant heat of charcoal or fire makes for controlled charring and searing.

  • The wider metal slats, instead of thin grates, make for better contact with the food and less threat of ingredients slipping through.

Drawbacks 👎

Price & availability: These are expensive and not readily available in stores. You’ll likely have to order one online.

Ease of use: You’ll have to master lighting charcoal or real firewood, and learn to cook with those mediums.

  • The adjustable height makes for a more forgiving and adaptable cooking experience than an average charcoal grill, however.

Overall outdoor score 🔥: 8/10