Stop sleeping on miso soup

Umami science, gochujang uses, and marinade mythbusting.

Good morning… you’ll notice we’re using the middle of this edition to focus on a single ingredient (gochujang) and it’s use cases. We have a few more write-ups like it coming.

  • If you enjoy the info, let us know what other pantry staples or ingredients you’d want us highlight.

TRY SOMETHING NEW 🤯

Miso soup

If you’ve ever had miso soup and wondered how such a humble dish can be so satisfying, there’s science to explain the experience:

Understanding umami synergy

There’s a concept in flavor theory known as umami synergy, where two savory ingredients multiply the perceived umami flavor in a dish.

  • Miso soup is a prime example of this because it uses dashi as its base, a Japanese stock made of kombu (kelp seaweed) and katsuobushi (bonito flakes). Alternatively, dried dashi powder creates an instant version of the stock.

These ingredients enhance our perception of umami rich glutamates in the kombu due to the reinforcing action of specific inosinate or nucleotide amino acids in the bonito.

  • In simpler terms, dashi’s ingredients compound the umami taste: equal parts kombu and bonito don’t make something twice as savory, they make a broth eight times as savory (according to scholarly research)!

On top of all that, umami-rich miso is added to the mix, which adds another dimension of savoriness but balances the soup with some sweetness, complexity, and texture.

A simple & practical soup

Aside from having a scientifically satisfying flavor, miso soup also happens to be one of the easiest dishes to put together. It’s no wonder the soup is one of the most popular dishes of all time:

  1. It can be made with mostly pantry staples, plus tofu and scallions. Even if you have to go buy the Japanese specialty ingredients (dried seaweed, miso paste, dashi elements), extras will last a long time.

  2. The soup comes together in under 15 minutes.

  3. The soup can be had for breakfast, lunch, or dinner. It’s friendly on your body & digestion thanks to the fermented products, and decently high in protein.

If you come from a culture that doesn’t make this regularly at home, you should strongly consider making it a staple. It’s too easy not to.

Ready to cook? Follow the step-by-step Cook Well recipe here:

INGREDIENT DEEP DIVE 🍳

Get to know: gochujang

What is it?

Gochujang is a Korean fermented chili & soybean paste thickened with sweet glutinous rice starch. The classic gochujang dish is Tteokbokki: rice cakes simmered in a spicy & aromatic sauce.

  • You can buy it readily at most grocery stores in the condiment aisle. Look for the classic red plastic containers.

What’s its flavor?

Taste: Sweet, salty, & umami

Aroma: Funky, fruity, peppery, & earthy

Physical - Spicy: Usually, gochujang is only moderately spicy, despite what you might assume from its deep red color.

Why should you buy some?

Because gochujang is a fermented product with a relatively high salt content, it has a really long shelf life, especially when kept in the fridge after opening. Buy a tub and you’ll have an instant flavor booster ready throughout the year.

Its smooth texture makes it easy to mix into sauces, dressings, or marinades. It adds heat, aroma, and color to otherwise bland dishes.

What else can you make with it?

  • Wing sauce: Thin it out with melted butter to make a gochujang “buffalo” to toss with

  • Fusion: add to tomato dishes like shakshuka or pasta for a spicy, Korean twist

  • Add a dab to salad dressings for color & heat

  • Toss into some fried rice or noodles

  • Mix with ketchup or mayo for an upgraded fry sauce

If that isn’t enough to convince you, check out Ethan’s three reasons he keeps some around at all times, or try this marinade recipe with the stuff:

THE LEFTOVER SHELF 🥡

Gochujang “bulgogi” marinade

Gochujang marinated beef with a side of kimchi.

Bulgogi is a Korean method of cooking marinated thin meat slices over a hot & fast heat source. Marinades often include various soy sauces, aromatics, and sugars.

  • Gochujang already has a lot of those same aromas and flavors, as a sweet, aromatic fermented soybean product itself

Thus as a shortcut, try tossing thin shavings of meat with some gochujang (plus some soy sauce to thin it out and provide saltiness to the meat) as a quick “bulgogi” hack:

Gochujang seared meat

Marinated meat

  • Thinly sliced meat

  • Enough gochujang to just coat the meat

  • Soy sauce for saltiness and to thin the sauce

Serving options

  • As a stir-fry base with added vegetables

  • In a bibimbap bowl

  • Over rice w/ scallions & sesame seeds

Method

Massage the meat slices with the gochujang/soy sauce and marinate until well coated. Let that marinate for 30 minutes or up to overnight.

Sear the meat over a ripping hot grill or oiled griddle until charred and just cooked through. Be careful: gochujang’s sugar content makes it easy to burn if left unattended. Monitor the heat or be ready to deglaze the pan with a splash of water.

READER Q&A 🧠

Is marinating pointless?

Question: “Many people say that marinating meat is pointless because meat can't absorb any flavors except salt. Is that true? In my opinion meat really tastes like marinade used.” - Saul R

Answer: You’re right that salt penetrates the meat, but keep in mind that other flavors (via aromatic compounds) become dissolved by fat, water, or acid in the marinade, which leaves you with an end product that smells (and thus has the flavor) of the marinade.

This is why marinades are usually made with oils and acids (such as vinegar, citrus juice, yogurt, or buttermilk) along with the spices, herbs, and other flavorings.

  • The fat in the marinade helps unluck certain fat-soluble aromatics. This is why the mayo-marinade technique works.

  • The acid in the marinade can also break down some of the protein fibers, resulting in a more tender meat product but also a looser meat structure that may retain some of the marinade juices (at least on the surface of the meat).

So while only the salt may penetrate deep into the meat, the water, fat, and acid in the marinade help dissolve the seasonings, which provides more aroma and changes the the flavor of the dish.

For more info on marinating and other cooking techniques, read through the Fundamentals page on Cook Well.

Have a culinary question? Reply to send it in for a chance to be featured and get your question answered.

READER PHOTO SUBMISSION OF THE WEEK 🏆

Respectable ramen

This week’s dinner winner is Fedor Z. This pork & chicken ramen is topped with a marinated egg, corn, smoked ham, lotus root, and aroma oils. Well done.

Reply with your best home-cooked food photos for a chance to win & be featured!

EXTRA HELPINGS 🍽️

In a minute or less: Why do humans like spicy foods?

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