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Why are giant cookies a trend?

Why are giant cookies a trend?

Tamales, crostini appetizers, essential Asian noodles, & more.

Keith McBrayer & Ethan Chlebowski
December 24, 2023

Good morning…While tamales are enjoyed year-round, they are particularly suited for the holidays as a family or group activity.

If you want to join in on the tradition this week, today’s main recipe provides a rough overview of the process and some resources to check out.

TRY SOMETHING NEW 🤯

Tamales

Tamale framework

Starting Masa Ratios

2 parts masa harina
1 part water or broth
1/2 part lard
0.5% baking powder (by weight)
0.5% salt (by weight)

Filling options

Shredded, soft meat → like tomatillo chicken, tinga poblana, or even birria
Refried beans & cheese

Equipment

Dried corn husks
Steaming pot + coin
Masa spreader tools

Instructions

1) Prep: Make the filling of choice ahead of time. When you are ready to make tamales, submerge the corn husks in a large bowl of warm water to soften.

2) Make the masa: Using a stand mixer or hand blender, whip/whisk the lard until it is aerated and resembles cake frosting. This will keep the masa light instead of dense.

Add the baking powder and masa, and begin mixing that into the fat. Slowly drizzle in the broth while mixing/whisking on high speed until the masa is hydrated.

The masa should be moist and aerated, resembling the texture of hummus or cake batter.

3) Assemble the tamales: Take a soaked corn husk. To the smooth side of the husk, spoon about a dollop of masa into the wide half and spread it into a 4” square. Add a line of prepared filling to the middle of the masa. Roll the husk together so that the masa encloses the filling, then fold the pointed end of the husk over to finish the tamale package.

Optionally tie each tamale with a strip of extra corn husk, then add to the steaming pot. Arrange the tamales vertically, open side up.

4) Steam: Add about an inch of water to a tamale steaming pot (or large stock pot with a steaming rack at the bottom). Once the steamer is full of tamales, set over a stove, cover, and steam for 75 mins, or until the masa cleanly pulls away from the corn husks.

You can add a metal coin to the steamer. It will rattle during cooking to remind you the water is simmering. If it stops moving, you’ll know to add a bit more water

Serve & enjoy with your favorite salsa.

If commit and want to follow a detailed guide, here are three we’d recommend:

Masienda’s video guide
Rick Martinez’s pork tamales rojos
Rick Bayless’s green chile tamales

THROWBACK TIME 🍳

Foolproof focaccia

High-hydration doughs like focaccia are a great entry point to get into bread making. It uses just a few pantry staples, requires no special equipment, and is relatively forgiving.

Check out the video, or read the recipe here.

Making a sheet pan of focaccia at the start of a week sets you up for so many great leftovers.

Use the pillowy bread for sandwiches, 5-minute pizzas, or as the ultimate side and sauce dipping vessel.

Or, here’s an idea for using the bread as a crowd-pleasing appetizer…

THE LEFTOVER SHELF 🥡

Crostini sampler

If you’re looking for some appetizers for the holidays this week, here’s a crostini/bruschetta framework to impress:

Pick at least 2 different ingredients from the topping options below, and spread them on leftover focaccia or crackers.

Crostini components

Bread

Crackers or bread of choice, cut into single serving pieces, toasted

Creamy base options:

Ricotta or cream cheese
Brie or blue cheese
Pesto, muhammara, or hummus
Beans

Salty/funky options:

Anchovies or sardines
Prosciutto or cured meats
Olives, capers, or tapenade spread
Pickled vegetables

Sweet/fresh options:

Dates or figs
Jam, preserves, or fresh fruit
Cucumbers or herbs/greens

Level-up garnishes:

Flakey salt, EVOO or honey drizzles, seeds & nuts

To assemble

Cut and toast all bread pieces. Spread/top with your choice of ingredients, and serve on a platter.

Note: The options are endless. Here’s a list of classic crostini combos for more inspiration.

FOOD TRENDS EXPLAINED 🚀

Giant Cookies

Q: What’s the deal with the giant cookie trend?

A: The trend’s impetus was Levain Bakery, known for its signature six-ounce cookies and long lines out the door.

Levain has since expanded from NYC to LA, and now bakeries everywhere seem to be cranking out huge treats.

From a social perspective, cookie size goes beyond the calorie count:

The mounds of dough sport a visual appeal that signals them as comfort food, they are more shareable between two people, and, of course, more Instagram-worthy.

Does the size make a culinary difference, though?

The size helps the texture, actually: a mound of dough means more contrast between the crisp, golden-brown exterior and the soft, chewy interior.

Larger cookies have greater thermal mass — meaning they stay warm and gooey for longer than a smaller cookie that goes cold and stiff within minutes.

So to a certain extent, bigger is better.

READER Q&A 🧠

Pantry noodles

Question: “What are the basic Asian noodles everyone should have on hand?” - Stephanie G

Answer: Keeping various noodles stocked in the pantry opens up the opportunity to make many different dishes on the fly.

For example, you could almost always make 3-ingredient scallion oil noodles with just pantry staples…

Anyway, here are the noodles we always try to stock up on:

Rice noodles, in a few different widths:

Thin vermicelli for pho or glass noodle style dishes.
Standard rice stick size for pad Thai or soup.
Wide — for stir fries like pad see ew.

Dried wheat noodles

Thinner wheat noodles for ramen.
Thicker buckwheat noodles for soba.

Egg noodles, which can be found dried, fresh, or frozen

Thicker ones are great for lo mein.
Thinner ones are great for chow mein or khao soi.

Bonus points: pick up some tubular rice cakes — these make the ultimate pantry dish Tteokbokki.

READER PHOTO SUBMISSION OF THE WEEK 🏆

Top tier tostada

This week’s dinner winner is Jason S., who celebrated Tostada Tuesday with potatoes and chorizo. Now you can celebrate winning too, Jason!

Reply with a picture of the best meal you made this week for a chance to be featured in a future email.