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Three ingredient pasta in 15 mins

Three ingredient pasta in 15 mins

+ migas, anchovies, & brown sugar hacks

Keith McBrayer & Ethan Chlebowski
March 31, 2024

Good morning. This newsletter has covered egg dishes around the world, and today we’re excited to add Migas to the collection. It’s another example of a humble dish with interesting history and regional variations.

RECIPE BREAKDOWN 🍴

Tex Mex Style Migas

In Mexican restaurants across the Southern U.S., it’s common to see “migas” on the menu: an egg scramble of tortilla strips, peppers, onions, and tomatoes served with tortillas or a side of beans.

A dynamic history

The dish originated in old-world Spain as a method to utilize leftover starches. Eggs were cooked with leftover torta loaves or breadcrumbs, and seasoned with bits of chorizo or meat. It picked up regional flair: as you move to southern Spain, the dish resembles an egg couscous thanks to the neighboring African influences. Travel west to Portugal and you’ll find migas made with cornbread or potatoes.

When Spanish colonialism brought the dish to Mexico, maize was the primary available starch. Eggs were then scrambled with day-old masa tortillas, leading to the modern version with chips (perhaps influenced by chilaquiles, another ubiquitous dish made with tortilla chips).

Flavorful & functional

Like the alambre recipe we shared a few weeks ago, this is a flavorful, skillet-style (one pan) recipe, but even easier to make and brunch-friendly. It comes together in minutes.

Egg scrambles aren’t anything new, but Migas adds crispy textures and starch volume for a filling and satisfying meal.

If you don’t have tortilla strips, crushed tostadas, chips, or even torn soft tortillas will work.

Make it your own: Eggs and corn tortilla products are essential, but vegetable or meat additions are welcome (try poblanos, chorizo, ham, etc). Serve on its own or as a filling for breakfast tacos. Bolster the meal with salsa and avocado, if you want.

Ready to cook? Follow the step-by-step recipe & framework:

INGREDIENT HIGHLIGHT 🍳

Tinned Anchovies

What are anchovies?

Anchovies are small, saltwater fish found in large numbers globally, making them a sustainable seafood choice. While some cuisines consume them fresh, they are typically salted, cured, and canned in oil. In canned anchovies, the heads and guts are removed. The curing process softens the bones, rendering the entire remaining fish edible.

Even if you’ve never had an anchovy by itself, you’ve likely appreciated its flavor in Worcestershire, fish sauce, tapenade, or Caesar salad dressing.

What’s their flavor?

Taste: salty & umami

Aroma: meaty & oceanic (high-quality tins should smell mild, not super fishy)

Texture: unctuous

Brush up on these terms on our Fundamentals page, which defines all elements of flavor.

Why should you buy some?

These are the ultimate umami bomb pantry product. They’re shelf-stable and cheap, so you have no excuse but to keep a few tins around. Then you’re ready to:

Toss a few into pasta sauces, chili, and ragus for a savory boost.
Use them whole as a salty bruschetta or pizza topping.
Saute vegetables with them (or the remaining oil in the tin), or blend them into a marinade for depth of flavor.

Buying tips

Avoid anchovy paste, which is often fishy and unpleasant. Whole tinned anchovies melt immediately into dishes anyway.
If you splurge for a fancy tin from a boutique producer, try to enjoy them whole with some quality bread.
If you’re looking for a less oily product, salt-packed anchovies are delicious too, and often meatier (although harder to find).

Already an anchovy aficionado? Level up and try some dried anchovies. These are used in Japanese & Korean cuisines for flavoring broths, or fried crispy as a snack.

TRY SOMETHING NEW 🤯

Anchovy Butter Pasta

If you’re looking to appreciate anchovies, try them out with this 15-minute, 3-ingredient newsletter-exclusive recipe.

We were inspired by Italia Squisita’s video (great channel and pasta resource to follow). Their version is more chef-y and adds a few extra elements. Ours is a simplified method tested to come together for a quick meal.

Dish components

A serving of spaghetti
Butter
Tinned anchovies
Optional garnishes: chopped herbs, black pepper, grated hard cheese

To assemble

Bring a pot of water to a boil. Add in a serving of spaghetti and lightly season the water with salt.

While that boils, make the sauce. In a wide or deep saute pan, start melting a spoonful or two of butter on low heat (just enough to coat the pasta and create the sauce). Add a few anchovies. Swirl the anchovies into the melting butter. They should start to dissolve into the sauce. Avoid overheating the pan — the goal is to melt the butter without letting it split or come to a simmer.

Bring it all together: When the noodles are soft, add them to the anchovy butter along with a splash of pasta water. Toss until the noodles are coated. Add a splash more pasta water if the sauce needs thinning, or a pad of cold butter if it needs to thicken up.

Serve warm, and top with optional garnishes, a drizzle of extra anchovy oil and a few more whole anchovies, if desired.

This simple pasta is unctuous, salty, umami, and incredibly satisfying.

READER Q&A 🧠

Soft Brown Sugar

Question: “How do you keep brown sugar from hardening in the pantry?” - Kenny M

Answer: Brown sugar tends to harden when it's exposed to air and loses moisture. First, make sure to store it properly to keep it soft in the first place:

Use an airtight container: Transfer the brown sugar to minimize air exposure and reduce hardening. If you're in a dry area:
Consider a sugar keeper: These designed containers maintain freshness and softness, often including a terra cotta disc for moisture.

If you’re looking to revive already hardened brown sugar, you can soften it by reintroducing water content or gently heating it up. Try:

Got time? Add moisture: Place a damp paper towel, or a dampened terra cotta brown sugar saver (a small, porous clay disc) in the container with the brown sugar. In a day or two, the added humidity will soften the sugar.
Need it now? Use the microwave: Place it in a microwave-safe bowl, cover with a damp towel, and microwave in 10-15 second intervals until soft. Avoid overheating to prevent melting or scorching. Alternatively, try Serious Eat’s gallon bag kneading method.

Fun fact: did you know brown sugar is actually granulated white sugar mixed with molasses?

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